Ferments for the table

I first kept fermentation in the kitchen because of flavour: the sourness of good kraut, the depth of miso. The jars stayed for that reason.

The ferments I cook with

Kimchi. Alongside protein at lunch, folded into grain bowls, spooned over eggs.

Sauerkraut. Its acidity cuts through oily fish. I also toss it through salads.

Kefir. Tangier and more varied than yogurt. A base for a blended drink, a dressing or overnight oats.

Miso. Soup, glazes for fish, dressings, marinades. White miso on black cod is a dish guests ask for again.

Natto. Fermented soybeans from Japan, eaten over rice at breakfast. An acquired taste: start small. It is very high in vitamin K, so check with your doctor if you take blood thinners.

Fermenting at home

Quick pickles are not fermented, but they get you used to the flavours. Lacto-fermented vegetables need salt, vegetables and time. Milk kefir: add kefir grains to milk and wait.

Buying ferments

Look for "live cultures" on the label, the refrigerated aisle and a short ingredient list. Skip shelf-stable versions (usually pasteurised) and anything with added sugar.

Making it a habit

A spoonful of kraut at lunch, miso soup in the morning, kefir in a dressing. Small, regular amounts are easier to keep up than a strict plan.