A pot of greens, and how to cook them

Olive oil, oily fish, greens, turmeric, and a pot that is not left on a raging flame. That is how I build this menu. It is cooking, not a list of rules.

The ingredients I lean on

Extra virgin olive oil

The base of nearly everything I cook. Good oil has a peppery catch at the back of the throat, from a compound called oleocanthal. I use it to finish dishes, for gentle sautéing, and in dressings and marinades.

Oily fish

Sardines, mackerel, anchovies and wild salmon. On the Riviera, sardines and anchovies are local, cheap and wonderful.

Turmeric and black pepper

If turmeric goes in, so does pepper.

Greens and brassicas

Broccoli, cauliflower and especially broccoli sprouts.

What I use less of

Refined sugar, processed seed oils, trans fats and processed meats.

Techniques

Gentle heat

I favour steaming, poaching, sous vide and slow roasting over a hard char.

Choosing the oil

• ·High heat: avocado oil, refined coconut oil
• ·Medium heat: extra virgin olive oil, which holds up well to around 190°C, more than most people think
• ·No heat: flaxseed oil, walnut oil

Herbs and spices

Ginger, rosemary, garlic and cinnamon bring flavour, so the dish needs less salt and less sugar.

A day of menu ideas

• ·Morning: warm milk with turmeric, ginger and black pepper
• ·Lunch: salmon with quinoa, vegetables and olive oil
• ·Dinner: herb-crusted lamb with roasted cauliflower and broccoli
• ·Something sweet: 85% dark chocolate with walnuts and berries